Turancin Rasha - kayan samfurori

Kyautar turaren Rasha - kayan samfurori - yana daya daga cikin mawuyacin hali da sabani. Labarinta ya cike da abubuwan ban mamaki da abubuwan ban mamaki, cin nasara da yawa da cin nasara. Bayan samun nasara a duniya a zamanin juyin juya hali, ya rasa ikonsa a zamanin Soviet. A yau, kayan turare na sake gwadawa don farfado da hadisai da sake sake farfado da su.

Tarihin turare na Rasha ya fara, kamar yadda suke cewa, "don lafiya". Masu turare na kasashen waje, waɗanda ba su da farin ciki a ƙasarsu, sun koma Rasha, inda suka bayyana tare da karfi da kuma manyan. Haka ne, da kuma '' noses '' '' Rasha, bayan sunyi nazarin ilimin waje ko kuma sunyi aiki a matsayin masu karatu, "sun ba su asalinsu kyauta: furotin na Rasha - kayan samfurori sun zama masu karuwa. A ƙarshen XIX - farkon karni na XX, sunayen A. Ferrein sun yi rudani a ko'ina cikin kasar, kuma masu sayar da kotu na Kotu - A. Ostroumov, G. Brokar, A. Ralle da A. Siu - sun sani ba kawai a Rasha ba, har ma a kasashen waje. Don haka, Alexander Ostroumov ya zama sananne ga ƙirƙirar sabulu daga dandruff, kuma daga bisani ya bude kamfani na turare.


Shahararren "hanci" Alfons Ralle ya ba da turare na turare - kayan samfurori ba kawai ga Kotun Imperial ba, har ma ga Sarkin Shah na Farisa da Babban Yariman Prince Chernogorsky. Kamfaninsa ya karbi Gwamnatin Jihar Rasha sau hudu - kyautar mafi girma, wanda aka ba shi kyauta. Ya kasance a ma'aikata "A. Ralle da Co. "ya fara ne a matsayin mai aikin gwagwarmaya Ernest Bo (marubucin sanannen Chanel No. 5). Idan ba don juyin juya halin da ya sa mai karfin bashi ya yi hijira ba, zai dauki mukamin darekta na kamfanin, kuma ba a san abin da zai zama alamar "turaren turare na duniya" ba. Wani kundin kaya na farko na rukuni na Rasha - Heinrich Brokar. Wannan haɗin kai "hanci" shi ne ɗan ƙasar Faransa. Da ya isa Rasha, ya bude kasuwancinsa kuma ya fara fara ba da turare ba, sai dai sabo mai tsami. Mutane da yawa a aikinsa, Henry yana da matarsa ​​- Charlotte. Ita ne ta sanya shi wani zaɓi mai nasara: don sayar da samfurin kyauta "kyauta" (siffar siffar sabon abu) - siffar ball da kuma haruffan haruffan haruffa. Tallace-tallacen Brokarovskaya ya zama kalma. A bude wani daga cikin shagunan kamfanin ya bawa masu sayarwa "tallace-tallace tallace-tallace: kawai don ruble yana yiwuwa a saya saiti wanda ya ƙunshi abubuwa goma, wanda ya haɗa da turare, cologne, lustrine, toilet vinegar, vaseline, foda, puff, sachet, lipstick, sabulu. Abin farin ciki shi ne cewa 'yan sanda sun rufe kantin.


Wani talla na turare na Rasha - kayayyakin samfurori - Cologne "Flower" - kuma ya girgiza dukan Moscow. A Hotuna na Kasuwancin Ayyuka da Harkokin Kasuwanci na Rasha da aka yi amfani da shi, an gina wani marmaro mai "turare", inda kowa zai iya kwantar da kayan aiki, wuyan hannu da koda. Tunanin ya juya ya zama babban ci gaba da cewa "Flower" ya zama cologne na farko. Lokacin da Grand Duchess Maria Aleksandrovna ta ziyarci Moscow don ziyarar, Brokar ta gabatar da ita tare da wani kayan ado na furanni na furanni - wardi, lilies na kwari, da 'yan tsalle, daffodils. Kuma kowane fure yana cike da ƙanshi mai kama. Admired Maria Aleksandrovna ta ba wa mai ba da kyautar sunan mai sayar da kotu.

Harkokin hulɗa na "Brokar da Co" ya karu da yawa da ake kira turaren turaren "Brokar Empire", kuma an sayar da turare don sayarwa ga kasashe da yawa na Turai. A wurare daban-daban na duniya, ma'aikata sun karbi lambobin zinare 14, sun zama masu sana'a ba kawai daga Kotun Tsarin Mulki na Rasha ba, har ma da gidan sarauta na Mutanen Espanya, kuma a kan alamar kamfanin akwai alamomi guda uku, suna tabbatar da ingancin kaya.

Idan Brokar ya fara ne a matsayin sabulu, to, Adolf Siu mai shayarwa ya zama mai sana'a na jujjuya da wuri. Da yake da kyakkyawan kudin shiga daga kasuwanci, Siu ya yanke shawarar yin turare don haka ya ci nasara a cikin wannan kasuwancin ya fara ba da kundin tsarin mulkin mallaka ba kawai tare da gurasa ba, amma tare da turare. Ya ƙona turare ya kasance cikin ɓangaren "turare mai ƙanshi" kuma bai samuwa ga kowa ba. A takaice dai, masana'antun turare a Rasha sun fara girma. Kuma a shekara ta 1917 ya fadi ...

Mawallafi na farkon karni na XX dangane da ruhun A. Ostroumov, Ekaterina Geltser, dan wasan dan wasan Bolshoi: "Lokacin da nake raye a cikin" Corsair ", kullun nake yin amfani da kayan ƙanshin Violet ..." Elena Podolskaya, mai ba da labari: "Abin ƙanshinku" Kyau "yana kewaye ni da irin wannan yanayi mai ban sha'awa , cewa, inlasta su, ina tafiya, kamar yadda a cikin mafarkai na furanni. " Raisa Reisen, actress na gidan wasan kwaikwayon na Maly: "Idan Napoleon ya shafe Napoleon, Josephine ba zai taba yaudare shi ba."


Phoenix, haihuwa daga toka

Rasha mai ba da juyin juya hali ... A kan batun: kawar da dukkanin bourgeois. Kuma ciki har da perfumery - mafi yawan bourgeois na duk bourgeois samar da yankunan. Sabuwar kasar tana shayar da hayaki na masana'antu, aiki mai laushi lafiya da jiki mai tsabta. Sojan Rundunar Red Army da mutane suna buƙatar kawai sabulu - kuma babu wani abu. Sauran su ne bourgeois remnants. A sakamakon haka, dukkanin masana'antun turare sun sami lambobin tsararru kuma suka juya zuwa sabulu-bins. Kamfanin Ralle ya zama "Sandap Plant No. 4", da kuma daga baya - Soap State da Cosmetic Factory "Svoboda". "Brokar" ya juya zuwa "Shafin Farko na kasa da turare mai lamba 5" (daga baya a "New Zarya"), "Siu" - a cikin ma'aikata "Bolshevik", "Bodlo da Co" - a cikin kamfanin "Dawn".

A lokacin lokacin NEP, an sake samar da turare, amma a zamanin Stalin sai da sauri ya zama ba dole ba. Matar mafi kyau na Soviet elite, "matar mace ta biyu ta Amurka", matar Molotov, Polina Zhemchuzhina, ta shiga "gwagwarmaya" tare da Stalin don furotin gida. Ta maye gurbin tsohon darekta na "New Dawn" A. Zvezdov, ya koma wani wuri. Daga bisani, 'Amfanin' Fatness 'ne ya jagoranci Pearl din, yana hada dukkan kayan aikin turare da kayan shafawa, kuma bayan shekaru da yawa ya zama shugabannin kamfanonin turare, kayan shafawa, masana'antu da kuma sabulu. Ita ce Polina Zhemchuzhina wanda ke gudanar da yunkurin rinjayar Stalin don kada ya shafe kayan turare, ta iya tabbatar da cewa "lafaziyar wuri ne mai kyan gani, mai amfani da kuma wajibi ga mutanen". Kuma ta ma ta rinjayi "mahaifin mutane" don bada "mai kyau" ga turaren mai. Don haka samfurori na Rasha ya samu na biyu, wanda ya dace da rayuwa mai kyau.


A shekara ta 1930, ƙwarewar kayan turawa ta Rasha - kayayyakin samfurori da kayan aiki - kayan aikin turare na '' Svoboda '' da '' Bolshevik '' '' '' New Dawn '' ya karbi. Sabili da haka, "New Dawn" ya karbi kyauta a kan samar da kayayyakin turare. Akwai wasu ƙananan turare da kayan kwaskwarima a Jamhuriyar Tarayya, amma ba su bayyana manufofin "farfadowa na jam'iyyar" ba.

A kan tsarin kayan aikin turare akwai wata tambaya mai mahimmanci: yadda za a tabbatar da cewa ruhohi suna nuna manufofin jam'iyyar? An yi aiki a sararin samaniya: manta game da kullun da suke da shi da kuma irin abubuwan da ke da shi. Wajibi ne masu aiki suke bukata, wanda yake nufin ya kamata su kasance mai sauƙi, fahimta da kuma "ƙarfafa ƙaunar ga mahaifar gida". Mutane da yawa a yau suna lura cewa ruhohin zamanin Soviet sun kasance da mummunan rauni, kuma mummunan kullun ya zama matalauta.

Duk da haka, sannu-sannu, mataki zuwa mataki na turare na gida ya "lashe" wuraren da aka rasa. Daga brokar "bins" sun manta da samfurin, an dauki '' noses '' 'don' yan gwaje-gwajen, an gina "yankin turare". An haifi Phoenix daga toka. A hakika, "New Dawn" ya buga sabon violin, ruhunsa na jin dadi sosai (da kyau, babu gasa, kuma al'amuran waje ba su da mafarkin wani Soviet). Kamfanin ya gabatar da dandano a dandalin duniya kuma har ma ya karbi kyauta mai girma. A yau, kamfanonin turare mai suna "Red Moscow", "Black Box", "Blue Casket", "Flower Stone" - ana sayar da su a matsayin farashi. Ƙasar turare ta Rasha ta bunƙasa, kazalika da duk wani kasuwancin da ke baya da "Iron Curtain" a cikin babu masu cin nasara. Amma yanzu wani tsawar ya tashi - rikicin tattalin arziki, rashin karuwar samarwa, da rushewar Amurka ...


Har yanzu daga karce

Lokacin da kayan kasuwancin yamma suka zuba cikin kasuwar gida, kamfanoni Rasha da ke samar da turare na Rasha - kayan samfurori ba zai iya tsayawa gasar ba kuma ya tafi cikin inuwa. Hakika, bayan faduwar samarwa, mashawartan Rasha sun fara farawa "daga raguwa" - don koyo daga yamma, don tunawa da hanyoyin "kakan" kuma suyi ƙoƙari su gina hanyarsu ta hanyar turare-fure-perehozhennom. Duk da haka, sake farfado da al'adun turare mai ban mamaki shine aikin da ba shi da godiya. Formulas ya ci gaba da karni daya da suka wuce kuma ya dogara ne kawai a kan iyakacin nau'o'in nau'o'in halitta, yanzu ba su da kyau kuma suna "duba", a kalla, tsofaffi. Lakin gwaje-gwaje na asibiti na ƙasa sun fi dacewa da Yammacin yanayin kayan aiki kuma baza su iya iya ƙirƙirar kayan aikin asali ba. Bugu da ƙari, yawancin masana'antar doka da ke samar da samfurori masu daraja sun yi britsi, kuma yawancin tarzoma sun bayyana. A sakamakon haka, mai saya na Rasha ya rasa amincewa a cikin 'yan' '' '' '' '' 'kuma ya fi son amfani da samfurori na kamfanonin yamma. A yau, kayan turaren gida suna kama da jariri marar kyau. Babu ƙoƙarin yin ƙoƙarin yin amfani da mabukaci da "New Dawn" ya yi, ko kuma, ya zama cikin jiki - "New Etoile". Ƙarshen asali na wasu lokuta suna tsoratar da sunayensu marasa suna. "Lokaci na Mace", "Mania of the Night", "Mai Kyau", "Shaman Charming", "The Life in the Pink", "Bi Ni a Daren" - sauti kamar kama'a. A wasu kayan turare, masanan sun ce, "jin murya" na ruhohin yammacin duniya ana jin su: "Kuznetsk gada" yana kama da Ruwa daga Lancome, "Rashanci" - to Coco Mademoiselle daga Chanel, "Talisman na ƙauna" - zuwa Angel by Thierry Mugler. Kayan kwallun da kwalabe - m da rashin kulawa - abu ne mafi mahimmanci ga zane na waje. Haka ne, kuma talla yana barin abin da ake so. A cikin wata kalma, idan kamfanoni na gida sun yanke shawara su sake dawo da mabukaci (kuma alamu na kasashen waje sun mallaki fiye da 60% na kasuwar "ƙanshi" na Rasha a yau), gwagwarmaya mai tsanani ne. Duk da haka, "karni na uku" na turare na Rasha yana fara ne kawai, kuma, watakila, zai sake kaiwa gajeru, daga abin da ya rushe.


ƘARANYAN HAUSA

Ba kamfanin kamfanonin waje ne ba, amma mu "New Dawn" muke. Kamfanin ya kasance tare da abokan hulɗar Faransa tare da shekaru goma, kuma ana cigaba da samar da ƙanshi mai yawa na ma'aikata a cikin dakunan gwaje-gwajen Faransa. Hanyar ci gaba da wannan haɗin gwiwa shi ne sake ambaton kamfanin.